Frequently Asked Questions
Can't find what you are looking for here? You could head over to the Just Pictures contact form and ask us, we love a question and it might be so useful we could add it to this page to help others.
Submitting images:
Q1. Will you quote without me needing to commit?
Of course, as long as we can see your images first. If posting is your only option please make contact.
Q2. How do I get my images to you?
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electronically, if you have images that are digitised.
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by post.
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in person, by prior arrangement, if Hove, East Sussex is an option for you; we are 5 minutes walk from Hove Train Station. We will endeavour to accommodate outside of our normal business hours if these hours are difficult for you.
The How to send us images section will assist you.
Q3. What digital format should I submit my images in?
JPEG saved at the highest quality setting, TIFF or RAW.
Scanning images:
Q1. Do I have to scan an image that I want restored, coloured or retouched?
If you don't have or are unable to access suitable equipment we will do this for you,
Send your photo, carefully packaged, by Royal Mail signed for or your preferred signed for postal delivery service. Please state your requirements and contact details.
Q2. Can I scan my own images if I want to?
Yes, of course, if you have or can obtain access to suitable equipment and have confidence in using it to obtain a good quality result.
Q3. Why are different scanning resolutions used for different materials?
Photo prints:
Scanning photos at 300dpi (dots per inch) will allow a similar sized print to be produced at comparable quality to the original, if you intend printing. Scanning at 600 dpi doubles the effective image printable size although it doesn't mean it will print well at a larger size if the quality was never there in the first place. It can though be useful for smaller images and can help to produce a better working file for any, potential, restoration work.
35mm slide or negative films:
A frame of this requires more resolution to reach a printable size, as the image is small to begin with - scanning these at 300 dpi will, like photos, only give you an image of the same size as the original 35mm frame so you have to multiply the dpi figure sufficiently to to obtain meaningful sizes.
Medium Format:
This doesn't require as much resolution as 35mm films due to it's larger size, but it still requires more resolution than a scanned print to obtain reasonable print sizes.
Q4. Can I have my images scanned at a higher or lower resolution?
This is possible, but it is important to consider the intended purpose, higher resolutions don't necessarily improve an image and lower ones may not be a good option if there is a possibility you or someone else might like something later that isn't possible without scanning again to obtain a new, larger file.
The resolutions we are working to here are in a reasonable sweet spot between file size and potential print size, a print size that most people will never exceed, and are considerably higher than required to view on any screen. For potential printing medium format has more to offer than 35mm so higher resolutions might be better reserved for these films; 4000dpi for many 35mm films is more than enough, but it is a good catch all figure to get the best out of the better films.
Q5. Why do you offer to scan without dust and scratch removal?
Dust and scratch removal systems can be very useful, but if you do intend to post process your image yourself in software like Photoshop you may want to perform manual corrections yourself rather than let another programme decide for you. It can also be unhelpful for damaged images that you may want restored introducing more issues than it might solve.
Q6. If I am scanning my own images what do I need to think about?
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keep scanning surfaces and work areas as clean and dust free as possible. Scanner glass must be clean and dry. Do not use anything that will generate dust and debris such as paper towels or tissues to clean; Microfiber cloths are your best option.
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images must be clean too. Use a blower brush if you have one, they are not expensive to purchase though. Handle everything carefully, wash and dry your hands thoroughly before starting, wear cotton gloves if possible. If you have or are intending to use a can of compressed air for cleaning be mindful that these can release fine liquid propellant, you do not want this stuck to negatives or slides, keep it upright and test it before going anywhere near your images.
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lay photo images flat on the scanner, but do not flatten out any physical creases; it will cause additional damage, just lay the image flat and scan it as best as you can. Creases can be edited out later.
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take sometime to get to know the scanner being used if you are unsure.
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try and ensure the image being scanned is as in focus as possible, some trial and error might be required here with positioning and scanner adjustments and settings.
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scan using the software that came with the scanner selecting the highest quality JPEB or TIFF settings available and scan all images using the colour setting option that should be selectable within the software, this includes black and white images.
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aim to scan at the best optical resolution the scanner can provide for slides and negatives, check the scanner specifications. For paper photos larger images, say over a typical 7x5inch image, require only 300dpi, although 600 dpi is fine, better a larger file to work on than one that is too small. 600 dpi may be too little for smaller images, say under 5 inches on the longest side so 1200 dpi may be more appropriate.
Q7. How do I tell which way around my slides should be?
Slide film has a smooth glossier side, the 'base' side and a duller, textured side. The textured side is the emulsion side the shiny side is the viewing side. Sometimes this can be hard to determine so other visual indicators might help you, signs, car number plates, reading backwards, physical characteristics you might be familiar with that look reversed.
Payments:
Q1. Will I be able to see the results before I pay?
Of course, we wouldn't want it any other way. We will send you a low resolution and/or watermarked image via email. We don't expect you to be disappointed, but any issues we will work to resolve these with you.
Q2. How do I pay?
We will invoice you electronically for payment with payment instructions. The completed work will be emailed or dispatched to you once payment is confirmed.
Storing Images:
Q1. Can you put my image(s) on a DVD/USB and post in addition to emailing?
Yes, please refer to the Scanning section on the pricing page, prices for saving images/data to media such as DVD and USB devices can be found there.
Q2. Do you store my images indefinitely?
No, these are your images not ours, but we do hold digital files for a further 30 days after the transaction has been completed, just in case some unforeseeable disaster occurs with postal delivery or, for example, your main digital storage fails you before you have had an opportunity to back up your images.
Additional Help:
Q1. Can I digitally photograph my image(s) instead of scanning them?
Yes, but the type of equipment you are using and your technique to overcome a number of issues will play a large part in the result you can achieve, a little experimentation might be required. Generally, fill as much of your screen or viewfinder with the image concerned as you can while still being able to focus correctly. Try to avoid shooting anything behind glass. Do not use your flash, it just creates more reflections. Shoot in the best natural, diffuse light that you can find at the lowest possible ISO. Keep the image as flat as possible. If the image you are shooting has a matt type finish you will generally have an easier time.
Q2. I want to send you photo prints, but they are stuck together. Can I separate them without major damage?
It is possible, yes, with patience, but there are no guarantees all could be saved. Ping us a message if you'd like some guidance.
Q3. How do I remove a photo that is stuck to glass or what else can I do?
There are a couple of techniques that can help, but they do require patience and results may be mixed; you may have to accept that the image could be lost.
If you do want to have a go at tackling this job, before doing anything else get a copy of the image If you are in a position to scan the glass sheet the image is stuck to, not the frame. You may want to try a number of scans and select what looks best, but it may be difficult to avoid reflections from the glass platter of the scanner and the glass sheet the photo is stuck to.
You could also try photographing the image if you can focus close enough; you will need a camera with a macro setting, the little flower symbol, or a dedicated macro lens so you are able to fill your viewfinder or screen with the image and not lose resolution to the dead space around the picture - reflections may also cause you issues here.
If you do want to try and remove the photo and would like an idea of how to progress, ping us a message, but there are no guarantees of success.
Q4. Do you use customer photo's on your website?
Not without your permission, your images are your images. We either use images that are freely available that can be restored, coloured or retouched for demonstration purposes or use images of our own.
Q5. Can you make a blurred image sharp?
Generally, if the image was not in focus when shot, no, but some enhancement maybe possible depending on how out of focus it is.
Q6. Can you fill in a background convincingly if I want someone removed from a photo?
Yes, but the image needs to have sufficient, viable background still visible to act as donor material to reconstruct the vacant space. If the image is already tightly cropped in, another image with similar background and of similar perspective is required. The background could be replaced with a different background, but this might not achieve what you were looking for, particularly if the image would fall out of context if from a collection of images that were shot in the same environment.
Q7. Are there any photos you can't fix?
As much as it pains us, yes. If an image is missing a substantial amount of it's original material it may be impossible to return it to anything like it's original state. Some improvements can often be made with salvaging what is there and a little creativity, but we'll always discuss with you.
Q8. How do I get a better look at my slides and negatives to evaluate them before sending?
Slide viewers offer some inbuilt magnification and there are dual use viewers that also allow you to view negatives as they would look as 'positives'. You could also try a light-box to view slides, but you may want a loupe or other suitable magnifying equipment to give you a bigger view. There are costs here, but they are generally reasonable particularly if you have a large collection to look through.
There are also apps available for Android and IOS devices that can help you to view negatives as positives.
Q9. What format is best to digitise prints, negatives or slides?
Generally, negatives and slides, they are the base material that prints were made from, unless damage is such that the photo prints are more viable. Prints nevertheless can still yield excellent digital files.
Q10. Do you develop films and print photos?
We do develop and print, generally the old fashioned way, as we still like to shoot film occasionally, but only for ourselves. We are not set up as a commercial print lab and simply cannot offer you the options that they often can. However, if you would like us to arrange prints with a suitable lab, as part of a package, we can accommodate you, but there will be additional charges above what you might pay if you sourced a printers yourself.